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Printing guide ABS

With a heated bed

General rules :
ABS doesn't like it cold. That's why a heated bed is somehow mandatory to print it. Also why it's better to have your printer in a warm place.
Tips to increase your chances on good prints :
  • Use a bed heated between 90 and 100° (not too hot or the temperature gradient between the lower and upper layers will increase the risk of warping or layers curling up and not sticking).
  • Coat the bed with (ordered by effectiveness)
    • a thin layer of Dimafix spray. The best solution : the hotter the bed the better it sticks. And when cold the object comes loose easily.
    • an ABS slurry (ABS chunks dissolved in acetone).
    • or pour a small amount of acetone on the bed and use a kind of puck (previously printed small block of ABS). Work the puck into circles or back and forth motions into the acetone layer and thin coats of ABS will deposit on the bed.
    • a thin coat of PVC glue (the kind you can find in a can with a small brush)
  • Reduce the distance between nozzle and bed (will squeeze the filament on the bed). 0.15 to 0.2 should be OK.
  • Print with a brim (1/2 cm min).
  • Print with 40% infill max. Higher ratios will increase the risk of warping.
  • Reduce the fan speed to 30%.
  • Cover your printer to keep the heat inside and avoid draft (avoid temperatures over 60° inside the printer or it could damage the stepper motors).


Without heated bed

BuildTak
  • Pros:
    You already have it.
    Acceptable if you only print small objects. A 1/2 cm brim is mandatory. Infill 40% max.
  • Cons:
    Expensive.
    Won't prevent warping and lifting of bigger objects.


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